Walk into any luxury tailoring studio, and you’ll hear numbers like Super 100s, 120s, 150s—even Super 180s.
At House of Tailors, clients often ask us:
What do these numbers actually mean?
Does higher mean better?
And most importantly—how do I choose the right one?
The answer, like most things in tailoring, is not black and white. It’s about function, lifestyle, and longevity—not just how soft something feels in the moment.
What Do “Super” Numbers Mean?
“Super” numbers refer to the fineness of the wool fiber, measured in microns (a unit of diameter). The higher the number, the finer and thinner each individual fiber is.
This system was created by the International Wool Textile Organization (IWTO) to set standards for wool quality. Here’s how it works:
- Super 100s = fibers that are approx. 18.5 microns wide
- Super 120s = approx. 17.75 microns
- Super 150s = approx. 16.75 microns
- Super 180s = approx. 14.75 microns
Thinner fibers = softer feel.
But here’s the twist: softer doesn’t always mean better.
Super 100s
Super 100s wool is durable, slightly heavier, and built for everyday wear. It holds shape well, resists wrinkling, and is ideal for people who move between meetings, commutes, and travel.
It may not have the buttery softness of higher Super counts, but what it offers in longevity and structure is unmatched.
At House of Tailors, we recommend Super 100s for clients who want:
- A daily business suit
- A wardrobe staple in navy, charcoal, or grey
If you’re someone who values reliability and resilience, this is your go-to fabric.
Super 120s
Super 120s wool strikes the perfect balance between comfort and durability. It’s noticeably softer than Super 100s but still retains enough weight and structure to wear confidently throughout the day.
Ideal for:
- Work to dinner transitions
- Traveling professionals
- Clients who want both comfort and crease-resistance
With proper care, a Super 120s suit can last years, while looking refined season after season.
Super 150s
Now we’re entering the realm of refined elegance. Super 150s wool is exceptionally soft, with a noticeably smoother finish. It drapes beautifully and gives that unmistakable feel of quiet luxury.
But because the fibers are finer, it’s slightly more delicate. It’s not fragile, but it requires respect. This is not a suit to wear to back-to-back meetings five days a week.
Perfect for:
- Executive-level clients
- Special occasions, client presentations, or VIP settings
- Those who prioritize elegance over daily wear
Super 180s
Super 180s is ultra-luxury suiting fabric. It’s incredibly soft, almost silk-like and often found in the most exclusive, limited fabric collections from elite mills like Drago, Holland & Sherry, and Reda.
But with that level of finesse comes sensitivity. Super 180s wool requires meticulous care. It’s best for occasional wear, ideal for gala dinners, black-tie events, or occasions where nothing less than perfection will do.
We advise clients to treat Super 180s suits as part of their high-end rotation—not the daily driver.
The Real Takeaway: It’s Not Just About the Number
Here’s the part most brands won’t tell you:
A Super 120s from a reputable Italian mill will always outperform a poorly milled Super 150s. It’s not just about fineness, it’s about weave, weight, yarn quality, and finishing.
At House of Tailors, we only source from renowned mills like:
- Drago – known for high-performance high-twist wool
- Reda – leaders in sustainable superfine fabric
- Marzoni – masters of visual texture and seasonal flair
- John Cavendish – British elegance and strength
- Holland & Sherry – heritage tailoring at its finest
So, Which Super Number Is Right for You?
There’s no single “best” Super count. Instead, ask yourself what you need from the fabric:
- For everyday use? → Super 100s or 110s
- For a mix of style and strength? → Super 120s
- For prestige with occasional wear? → Super 150s
- For your most elegant moments? → Super 180s+
And remember: the suit isn’t made from a number. It’s made from the experience you want to live in.
At House of Tailors, we’re not just here to take your measurements. We’re here to help you build a wardrobe with intention, starting with cloth that feels just right for you.
Because once you’ve worn the right fabric for the right moment, you’ll never want to settle again.